Sienese? ... puhlease!

Last weekend I went to Siena, had oh such a wonderous time.

Siena is much more hilly than Florence, which were rival cities in the Gothic period (Florence won, OF COURSE). The Sienese tried to outdo the Duomo of Florence, but after they'd built like the first wall, apparently realized it was architecturally unsound ... aka impossible. Then the plague hit, which kinda put a damper on all that grand thinking.

I did manage to see the preserved head of St. Catherine (skin and all!), along with some other equally elaborate (and disturbing/ridiculous) reliquaries.

We also saw a baptismal faunt with Ghiberti, Donatello, AND della Quercia relifes/statuettes for it.

We also traveled to nearby San Gimignano, which has 17 towers (it used to have over 40) from families trying to out-do one another. These we climed for an amazing view of beautiful northern Italy at sunset. We then finished the day with some wine tasting (with peccorino cheese and wild boar salami) at one such tower.

I also saw the Allegories of Good and Bad Government, which any art history nerd will recognize, as well as many other cool, and some very strange, frescos. Also I saw some amazing illuminated manuscripts and stained glass windows.


Check facebook for photos.

Venice Carnivale

So last weekend there was a school-sponsored trip to Venice for the final weekend of the famous masked celebration of Carnivale. My housemate and I were both on the waiting list, but neither of us got on the actual trip, so we booked ourselves some train tickets (with no further plans than that), and headed out. It was the beginning of a surreal and amazing weekend.

First of all Venice is much like most of you probably picture it: Lots of tiny streets and canals with arched bridges, and gondolas everywhere. It's also pretty much a labyrinth, and there are helpful signs everywhere with arrows to the main piazzas. The only problem with them is that pretty much every sign has two arrows pointing in opposite directions.

So we get to Piazza San Marco, the center of one of the 6 "sense" regions of the city (it was divided into such to add some new spice. San Marco was in the "Mind" region so I think it was like a synthesis of everything). It was really crowded, but a lot of fun, with bands playing, masks being worn by many, and beautiful views of churches and canals. Every now and then you would find yourself in the path of a parade of stilt-walking acrobats or costumed processions of masked couples. It was all incredibly lavish and elaborate. I myself purchased a mask, and later on a hat to complete my disguise.

After like less than an hour wandering aimlessly and in wonderment, we run into some friends, and sneak onto the SACI bus that night to crash in their hotel. (We also the next morning get some of the last tickets on a Sunday train back - talk about lucking out!). We head back to Venice that night and are led by "The Light Blue Princess" (actually a man) who was quite chivalrous and kind, to the main square, which had turned into one huge dance party. It was pretty intense, and we met a lot of Italians and also other foreigners from England, Australia, etc.

I just linked some photos from facebook because the internets are too slow to post my photos twice.

Roma

SO the past two weekends have been jam-packed.

The weekend before last I went on Saturday with my High Renaissance class to the Medici villas (basically palaces with huge, elaborate gardens). The Medici were in apparently totally into hidden water jets to soak their guests. Also they had water-powered automatons. They were planning to use them to take over the world.

Then we went to Vinci and saw Mr. Leonardo's childhood home, and some reconstructions of his CRAAAZY flying machines. Also dozens of inventions that actually worked. But I like to focus on the negative.

Then this last weekend I went with SACI to Roma and Tivoli.

On Friday, the day we left, I found out that the Italian government fell. Thats right. Collapsed. Basically I am living in a lawless state overrun by cannibals and plagued by feudal warlords. It's alright, though.

So basically, Rome is the shit. We spent 12 hours a day like speed walking to hundreds of churches, but by the time we were done, I had seen aka been inside of the Vatican museums, St Peters Baslica (the longest church in the world), the Colosseum and Roman Forum, Hadrian's Villa, and countless other chapels with things like original caravaggios and Berninis.

When we went into St Peters (the location of Michelangelo's Pieta), they started mass, and we got escorted out because of Prof was whispering to use about the art. She then proceeded to have a yelling match in Italian with the guards, who were threatening to call the police. Eventually, we were allowed to go back in under complete silence.... except the professor.

Also I saw the plasticine-preserved body of a dead Pope.

Also there are more pictures are on facebook.

Classes Begin

Hello all!

I just had two of my first classes, High Renaissance art history, and Beginning Italian.

The art history prof is phenomenally knowledgeable, and we had an amazing first class just introducing the Renaissance and going over some of Leonardo da Vinci's earliest paintings and sketches.

Then I moved to Italian, in which we were learning things I already knew from my friend Pimsleur, so it was nice to be at the head of the class for at least a day. Actually I felt a little awkward/bad always answering the questions immediately when everyone else was struggling/taking a minute to respond.

Mainly, this post is to show the photos that wouldn't display in my last post.

They are of my apartment room/terrace, and the Santa Maria del Fiore and Baptistry.

WEEK 1

Welcome, dear readers, to my SACI blog from Firenze (the city, not the centaur)!

I will briefly recount the week, accompanied by some pictures:

After an actually not-that-bad 11 hour flight to Munich, then a shorter one to Florence, I found myself in a mostly broken, not working apartment in Florence. By the next day we would have hot water, but not until 3 or so days would we have actual heat in the apartment. And let me tell you, Italian apartments are COLD. especially emotionally. Also, there are like 6 flights of stairs up to my apartment, followed by 2 more up to my attic-like room. however, my room has a phenomenal view of Florence, with such sights as the Duomo in plain sight.



I seem to be getting along with all of my housemates more or less really well. We are bonding over our lack of Italian prowess (some more than others), over the lack of heat (until very recently), and over the lack of history in this super-modern industrialized metropolis. One of those statements was false. Can you guess which one?

So we had two amazing but tiring as hell tour of the city, and Florence is even more of an art-rich city than I had imagined. There are statues, niches, cathedrals, and amazing architecture absolutely everywhere. I live around the corner from Santa Maria Novella, for instance. (located inside is a fresco by Ghirlandaio on which a young Michelangelo worked).


Other stops on the tour included of course Santa Maria del Fiore/the Duomo, Palazzo Vecchio/ Piazza Signiorina, hosting a copy of Michelangelo's David, and some original Donatellos!



There was heinous rain yesterday, Which I bravely forded searching for a cell phone, but alas twas for naught. However, the weather is in general quite nice, if a little wet.

And with that, I leave you!

The central market here is an awesome trove of fresh meats, cheese, and vegetables. The Italian food I have tasted so far is amazing. That said, I have not yet had the following: gelato, pizza, pasta from a restaurant. I will update when I do.